Because of the mid-engine layout of the Boxster and Cayman the engine is supported on three points.
On the rear, there are two transmission mounts which are gel-filled and hold up the back, but in front there is but a single point which takes all the weight and torque of the front part of the engine.
This, together with the heat emanating from the engine, slowly deteriorates the weak rubber core of the engine mount to the point where it completely separates.
• You can now assemble the new engine mount to the yoke.
Wiggle the assembly back in place and insert the two bottom
bolts on the engine mount.
Slowly raise the jack (engine) back to it's original position and
reverse the removal procedure.
Now you won't have the 3000 rpm vibration anymore.
• Before you go out and purchase a new Engine Mount,
we would like to show you our remanufactured version.
We have a Full Racing Version and an Enthusiast’s
Version. Both have outstanding durability versus the
OEM mount. The Full Racing version will allow more
vibration than the Enthusiasts, which is good for AX and
DE as well as for daily driving.
For more information, click here to see the full description,
and scroll down to the remanufactured section.
You will save some money and won’t have to replace
another mount.
Tighten all the hardware according to specs:
• No 1 - hexagon nut M10: 34 ft-lb (46 Nm)
• No 2 - hexagon nut M10: 34 ft-lb (46 Nm)
-
•No 3 - hexagon head bolt: 34 ft-lb (46 Nm)
-
•No 7 - hexagon head bolt: 34 ft-lb (46 Nm)
-
•No 8 - hexagon head bolt: 34 ft-lb (46 Nm)
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro
• To the right is a view of the
front of the engine without the engine mount.
You can notice the position of the two top
bolts that only need to be loosened and
not removed completely.
• Note the position of the engine
mount on the yoke and
remove the two bolts that hold
them together.
This is a good time to clean the
yoke.
• Now the whole assembly
(Engine front support and
support wishbone) should
be completely loose and free.
Manually force the coolant hose
over and wiggle the assembly
until it comes clear and remove.
• Finally remove the lower
two bolts that hold the
engine mount to the engine.
Once loose, these bolts should
have enough clearance to come
out. If not, raise or lower the jack
(which is holding the engine)
accordingly until you can
remove the bolts.
• Now this is where you need patience.
Loosen the two top bolts (15 mm) that hold the
Engine Mount to the engine. Don't remove the
driver's side, just leave it loose.
• Do the same for the passenger's side. For this you'll
meed a (15 mm) hex wrench and or a small
(15 mm) socket with ratchet. It's difficult because
the bolts that hold the engine mount to the engine
mount yoke don't leave much room to work with.
• After the four studs have been removed, and to
make the job easier, lower the engine about 3”
by lowering the supporting jack. This will give
you much better access to the upper bolts that
secure the Engine Mount to the Engine itself.
• The engine mount is attached to the front of the engine
via three bolts. The Front Engine Yoke is attached to
the car’s body via 4 fasteners, and the Front Yoke is
attached to the Engine Mount via two bolts.
This is a view of the engine mount mounted on the
Yoke. The engine mount base is difficult to see, because
it is below the yoke.
• There are two basic types of engine mounts.
The earlier models (1997 and some 1998)
had a “solid” base mount as the one on the
right side of the picture. Newer models have the
“open face or grid” type as shown on the left side.
Either mount will fit all models.
• Remove the four nuts (15 mm)
that hold the engine front support yoke. If the nut comes out with
the stud, don't worry. If only the nut comes out, remove the studs
as well (the tip of the stud is a 7 mm hex).
• Put a jack under the engine,
on the crossbar just in front
of the oil pan and jack until it
just supports the engine.
You can use a hydraulic jack
or a mechanical (scissors) jack.
• Move forward the two clamps that hold the coolant hoses to the engine support wishbone.
Don't undo them, just slide them forward on the hose itself.
• First make sure you have enough room to work safely underneath the car by placing it on a lift, on 4
stands or by backing it up on sturdy ramps.
• Remove the front and rear undercarriage panels by removing the plastic clips and the plastic nuts.
Use a flat screwdriver to pry of the clips. For the nuts, a wrench or socket will do.
• Remove the two plastic clamps that hold the coolant tubing in the tunnel.
There are two rubber spacers that are mounted on either side of the engine mount’s core which may be worn or
missing. It may be a good idea to have a couple just in case. Porsche part No: 986.375.255.01.
You could also make them from 1/8” rubber
Tools needed for removal and or replacement:
Car lift, ramps or sturdy stands (at least two)
Hydraulic or Mechanical Jack
Set of metric sockets and ratchet (13 mm to 19 mm)
Extensions for ratchet and sockets
Set of metric wrenches (13 mm to 19 mm)
Pliers and Flat screwdriver to remove bottom panels.
Torque Wrench.
Once this happens, there will be more engine vibration felt, especially around 3,000 rpm.
If the mount is not replaced, the core will wear down more and clunking sounds will appear as you accelerate, brake and turn. Shifting also becomes sloppier and more difficult.
In extreme cases the aluminum ring may eventually fail completely and the front of the engine will come to rest against the firewall, possibly causing damage to the water pump, air conditioning compressor and various other components in the front of the engine.
The only way to determine if the Front Engine Mount is damaged is by removing it and visually inspecting it.